Thursday, June 23, 2011

Barrow...Top of The World

Very soon after I came home from Bethel, I went to Barrow with two lovely folks from UAF. WHAT A GREAT PLACE!!!!  Truly the top of the world. 

Barrow is the largest city of the North Slope Borough in the U.S. state of Alaska.[2][3] It is one of the northernmost cities in the world, and is the northernmost city in the United States, with nearby Point Barrow being the nation's northernmost point. The population was 4,683 at the 2000 census, with an estimated population of 3,982 in 2007. 







We stayed in a hotel that ws exactly across the street from the airport on the main road.  This is truly a whaling town and the whaling captains are the kings.  Each crew hacks a path across the sea ice which is about 2 miles to the open ocean) in the spring to drag his whaling boat to the open leads to hunt for spring whales.  Each town is allowed so many strikes per season.  A strike is a throw of the harpoon, so the whalers are quite careful as to what they aim at.  Catching the  a whale is a big deal and the culture is such that sharing is so important.  The cvaptain of the crew that catches the whale has the honor of dividing up the whale and each member of the community gets a piece, with the elders getting the best pieces.  Then it is up to the whaling captain and his wife to throw a feast for the whole village.  There is a whole section of Barrow named after one of the large whaling families. All in all, I found Barrow a very friendly place.


Point Barrow is the tip and many, many scientist come there to study to sea and its ice as well as the whales.     This is the road to Point Barrow.  It goes past the fish camps where the Natives go every year from their houses in town to fish, and dry their salmon.  Notice the sense of humor in the "parm trees" made of whalebone and baleen.  Barrow is known for its football team.  Can you imagine?  Note that we are above the tree line and, even if it were not snow covered which happens in about July) there is nothing green.

The highlight of my trip to Barrow was a trip onto the sea ice.  There are many scientist in Barrow and someone told me that if I asked, and someone was going out to the open water they would take me.  Well they did, but it was not a casual trip.  Frist of all I had to acquire arctic gear including jacket, pants and double lined bunny boots. Then a snow machine was produce, and when I told them I had never driven one before, a driver had to be arranged for.  So, we had this great snow machine with heated handle bars! and a native guy who carried the biggest gun I had ever seen (for polar bears).  Then there was a discussion as to whether I could weild a pick axe, because apparently anyone who goes out has to contribute to hacking the path to the ice.  Luckily the path was complete by the time I got there so I was excused.  Silly me.  I thought sea ice was like pond ice.  It turns out it is like an ocea that has been flash frozen with So we went to the edge of the ice where a lead had just opened up.  The scientists where makinga "perch" from which they will watch the spring whale migration by standing their in shifts 8 hours a day counting whales as they go by.  When I was there a lead had just opened and they predicted would close again that night.













 

  This is the perch they were building.     Here are some scenes around Barrow, which seems to start getting snow in August which lasts until July,    Whalebones everywhere!         I was in love with the way this little girl played around.      Baby aboard!  Here is a skin whaling boat.  Can you imaging hunting a whale in one? This is a view from the end of the street where my hotel was located.

Note the prices!      A gallon of water was close to $7.00!!!

Here is a great example of, what up here is called a sun dog.

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